Monday, August 29, 2011

Heard about Kate Bosworth's jewelry line?

Baguette - A rectangular faceted shape, typically applied to rhinestones but also to precious/semi-precious stones cut in the same shape.

Basse-taille - An enameling technique where a transparent or translucent enamel is applied over a raised design. The earrings shown below illustrate this technique.



Cab, cabachon - Refers to a piece, usually semi-precious stone but may be lucite or glass, with a flat back, designed to be mounted, set or wire-wrapped. They may be used in pendants, bracelets or brooches, or glued on a 'pad' for earrings. The shape may be regular (round, oval, square or rectangular) or not - many 'cabs' used for wire-wrapping are irregular in shape. The photo below shows an assortment of shapes and sizes.



Chaton - The standard, round-cut rhinestone with a pointed back. The AB crystals shown above are typical chatons.

Color-lined - Typically refers to seed beads that have a transparent outer layer, clear or colored, with a contrasting or complimentery color lining; variations include silver-lined and gilt-lined.

Damascene - A finish with blackened enamel and goldtone - perhaps better illustrated than described. Many of these pieces originate in Spain, and may include colored enamel and inlay, like the bracelet below which has mother-of-pearl inlays and yellow enamel on the birds.



Demi, Demi-Parure - refers to a partial set of jewelry. A 'Full Parure' should consist of necklace, bracelet, earrings, and brooch. Often three pieces are referred to as a 'full' parure, while two pieces are referred to as a 'demi-parure'.

Givre - refers to a glass bead that has two or more colors combined; they may be swirled, or a subtle shading from one end to the other.

Guilloche - An enameling technique in which a continuous pattern is etched into the underlying metal, and then a transparent/translucent enamel is applied, leaving the underlying pattern visible. The pin below shows a fairly common guilloche pattern in jewelry, although it's difficult to see the pattern underlying the white areas of the pin in this photo.



Intaglio - Refers to a reverse-carved figure in glass, most commonly found in pendants. The carving is usually from the back, but may be from the front, and gives a wonderful three-dimensional look to the piece.

Montees - Full term is Rose Montees. Rose has nothing to do with color or shape! These are beads/buttons with two perpendicular 'holes' on the back. You may also find sliders referred to as montees - but these typically have two holes on opposite sides. The classic Rose Montee is a round larger rhinestone, but they can also be found in a variety of other shapes. The photo below shows a variety of 2-hole beads: the classic montee, in two shapes, is on the left; the blue rose is a 2-hole variety which may be used either like a montee, or with parallel strands; the pink butterfly is a typical 'slider' bead; and the tiny crystal on the right is a variation of the montee, typically used for buttons - in this case, doll buttons.



Moonglow - Applied to both lucite and glass - lucite moonglow beads appear to be lit from within, a beautiful effect; moonglow glass normally has colored glass, possibly with designs impressed, with a layer of clear glass over the top. I've come across the moonglow glass most commonly with buttons.

Navette - Refers to an elongated oval shape with pointed ends; usually with rhinestones, but may also be applied to precious and semi-precious stones with a similar cut.

Niello - A style of finish found in sterling jewelry and some other silver pieces; a matt black background enhances a polished silver design. These often show up in pieces labeled from Siam - which formally became Thailand in May of 1949 (so, any pieces that are stamped Siam may date back at least 50+ years!). The dancer shown on the brooch below is typical of Siam pieces.



Plique-au-Jour - Refers to pieces created by enameling without a backing; not unlike cloisonne', but typically the supporting metal borders around the enamel are heavier, and because there is no backing the translucent enamels allow light to show through. This brooch is a lovely example.



Repousse' - Applied to raised silverwork designs created by hammering the piece from the back to create the raised areas, then detailing it from the front.

Vitrail - An effect created by adding something to the base glass mix before the crystals are formed which alters the reflectivity of the crystal - as compared to a coating like aurora borealis. The photo on the left shows a Vitrail Light large crystal and Vitrail Medium beads; the one on the right shows the beads in comparison with the AB crystals described above..



I hope you've picked up at least one new term for your jewelry vocabulary! I don't consider this guide completed, but don't yet have photos to illustrate some of the terms listed. However, I hope the information provided will be helpful on your next 'shopping trip'!

aw me and my cousin Lydia before my uncles wedding!

There are several factors typically used to grade the stone, with color and patterning being the primary ones:

Color – the deeper, "volcanic" blues are considered to be "best".
Patterning – the richer, more interesting, the better.
Luster - is it glossy?
Luminosity - does it seem to "glow" or have an inner light?
Clarity - is it free of obvious defects? (Pits, cracks, carbon deposits, etc.)
Translucence - can light pass thru a portion of the stone?
Chatoyance - a luminous band with a silky luster (like that typical of cat's-eye).
There is no one particular factor that determines the grade; it is a combination of factors. The depth of color alone may not "make or break" the grade; the pattern and luminosity may bring up the grade of a stone whose color may not be as deep as others.

If so much larimar on Ebay is "AAA," why is there such a difference in price?

While the term "AAA Larimar" is bandied about quite freely on Ebay, in actuality, most larimar identified on Ebay as "AAA" is not even close to AAA Larimar.

How do I know the Larimar I see on Ebay is really "AAA" grade?

Unfortunately, you don’t. In fact, if the listing says it’s "AAA" then one thing is certain – it’s probably NOT!

Many unscrupulous (or unknowledgeable) sellers list practically every stone they sell as AAA. On Ebay, "AAA Larimar" has become a marketing term, rather than a true "grade." This does a disservice not only to Ebay customers, but to the stone itself.

But while true AAA larimar is not inexpensive, you don’t have to spend a fortune to get good, high-quality larimar.

With larimar, perhaps more than with any other gemstone, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Some prefer the very light blues of larimar, others prefer larimar stones that tend towards the green, and while others prefer larimar with mineral spots, some prefer larimar with no patterning at all.

In actuality, stones like those mentioned above cannot be classified as AAA larimar (or probably even AA larimar). But, when selecting larimar, the stone should speak to you. The stone you like the most is the stone that's right for you, regardless of its grading or perceived quality.

I have so many pictures to get developed from the wedding this past weekend!

Is this "Real" Authentic Tiffany?

Apparently there is a tremendous trust issue regarding the purchase of Tiffany merchandise on ebay. I can certainly concede with opinions shared by fellow bloggers, but certainly not all and I can definitely understand Tiffany & CO.'s position of defending their proprietary rights.

I do not claim to be an expert, however the person who assisted me in writing this Guide is a JA Certified Bench Jeweler and a GIA Gemologist.

Before sharing guidelines, which are my opinion as a result of extensive investigation into the matter...I do wish to state that if you truly want to be 100% certain that you are buying Tiffany merchandise...purchase it directly from an Authorized Tiffany Retailer.

GUIDELINES:

Are the photos of the item stock photos or actual photos of the item listed?

Are the photos listed clear and are enough details presented to offer a true depiction of the item?
I do disagree with the blogger who stated that if Tiffany jewelry has too shiny of an appearance it is a reproduction. First of all Tiffany's pieces on their website appear shiny and if you visit their stores the jewelry is quite shiny indeed.
Also when a professional or someone who is adroit with digital cameras takes photos of jewelry using the correct lighting and background, the jewelry will definitely project much luster. Below are two photos of the same bracelet and as you can see that lighting and background do determine the final image, so just because a sellers item appears shiny in a photo this does not mean it is countefeit.



Is the listing too wordy with endless reasons for selling or is it straight and to the point?
Being as Tiffany's have a 30 day return policy, I question the sellers who state that they just bought the item or received it as a gift, but yada yada and have decided to sell it.

I personally am an advocate of the KISS method...Keep it short and simple. Definitely it is wise to offer a detailed description of the item, but I recommend a that a seller avoid over stating their case on as to why they are selling the item. I believe great photos are the best for they speak a thousand words.

If there is a copy of a receipt...is it real or a facsimile?
I have visited several other auction sites where people are creating and selling fake Tiffany receipts. For those listings that offer a receipt...I would ask for the sales associates name, the location of the store, the telephone number, transaction, and item number located on the receipt and then contact the store to verify authenticity. All of this information is stored within their archives.
I would apply this to appraisals of fine gemstone jewelry as well.
Below is a photo of an actual Tiffany receipt and one of a fake receipt. You may have to zoom in for details.

Receipt from a Tiffany Store Fake Receipt




When you ask the seller a question..do they respond?
If they do not this is a red flag that something isn't right.

Do they list numerous items continuously?
This could be a red flag and then again it would depend on the circumstances. For example if an estate is being liquidated and the person owned a large amount of luxury merchandise, this would definitely provide a valid reason for selling a number of jewelry pieces over a period of time. Also a person owning a luxury consignment business would have access to more items of this nature to resell.

I would say that the real red flag presented would be if the "same" style is listed repeatedly within short intervals. Also in my opinion another red flag is one or three day listings particularly those that appear on the weekends, holidays, or Tuesday through Thursday. Most reputable sellers will set up their listings for 7-10 day viewings.

Does the seller offer a return policy or is it an all sales are final listing?
I believe that the lack of a return policy is a red flag situation.

If it is a Buy it now price...is the price low and too good to be true?
The rule of thumb here is that the seller should be asking around 50% of the actual retail price or more and settle for no less than around 33% of the retail price. Regarding auctions that start with a .99 cents bid and no reserves...this is fine for this is done to eliminate costly listing fees.

What about the packaging offered and/or included?
This can be a determining factor regarding authenticity for Tiffany's packaging is exquisite and really cannot be accurately replicated.

I believe that the packaging is a dead giveaway regarding the authenticity issue.

Tiffany's boxes are that unique "Tiffany Blue" comparable to the colour of a robin's egg and not blue/green. The pouches are very soft to the touch"Tiffany Blue" with a clear logo and not stiff with a green hue and sub-standard print. Even the silver care cards are printed on heavy quality paper stock, not cheap flimsy paper.

Additionally, Tiffany packaging cannot be sold on ebay for I had tried to sell some of the higher end Tiffany jewelry packaging and my listings were removed. Now, I know you are going to say, well, I have seen packaging listed and even sold...well, this may be true, but often it is removed before the listing is scheduled to end. Below are photos of Authentic and Fake Tiffany Packaging.

Authentic Tiffany boxes & pouches



Fake Packaging
If you examine these you will notice that the print is off center, the pouches even visually look stiff and it is interesting that these photograph blue when in fact the boxes are a green/blue (more green than blue) and the pouches are even a muddy blue/green. However, when you receive your order in this type of packaging and particularly if you have purchased directly from a Tiffany's store in the past you will immediately know that you have been sold a reproduction.


The item you are interested in is 18K Gold...can this be a reproduction?
Absolutely, yes! In visiting other auction sites I am seeing a lot of 925 sterling silver/ 18K gold plated Tiffany merchandise. I believe these items are easy to identify for they have an orangey appearance rather than a true soft golden glow. This is where I would definitely insist on actual photos of the item and not accept stock photos. Also the packaging of higher end items such as these are packaged in the Dark Blue lined Cases with the Logo in Gold and then placed in a "Tiffany Blue" box. Again, the packaging reveals much truth regarding authenticity. Below are photos of high end Tiffany Packaging.



Should you buy from sellers with much, little, or no feedback?
Personally the only sellers I would refrain from doing business with would be those with "private" feedback. Additionally I would choose not to sell to these members as well. Nautrally if they have a number of negatives it would not be advisable to conduct business with a seller of this status. However I review any negative feedback to determine whether it is actually valid or simply petty and/or vindictive in nature.

I am of the opinion that if the item I am interested in is described accurately, the seller has quality photos of the item listed, the seller has a fair return policy, the seller accepts paypal for remittance and is paypal verified...I would have no issue doing business with this person. Definitely avoid sellers who want remittance made via unsecured gateways such as Western Union.


Tiffany & CO. does not ever have "Sales."

This is an American Designer CO. that has been in business since 1837 and they do not need to offer their items at reduced prices.

Tiffany's do not have wholesale distributors and this is according to Tiffany & CO.

The only way to purchase Tiffany merchandise is via their web site, an Authorized Tiffany Retailer, or from an person who has bought it from a Tiffany's store.

Have a look at WGI photography services, including Wedding Photography

Actor Sir John Mills sent a telegram to comedian Jim Davidson in 1990, on the day of his 4th wedding. It simply read, "WILL IT LAST?"

My Favorite Wire Wrapped Jewelry Cleaner…

Like all jewelry, your wire wrapped jewelry needs to be properly cared for and cleaned. Properly cleaning & caring for your jewelry can make a world of difference in maintaining its beauty and keeping it sparkling for generations. I have created and cleaned thousands of pieces of jewelry! I thought I would share a little of my experience with you. This is a guide; I am not an expert-- just a jewelry artist that has cleaned LOTS of wire wrapped jewelry!! If you are not sure about cleaning your particular piece of jewelry try a polishing cloth on the metal…or bring it to a jeweler for cleaning assistance…it is not worth taking a chance!

My Favorite Wire Wrapped Jewelry Cleaner…
Dish Soap! I have bought many different types of jewelry cleaner & find my bottle of Dawn dish soap is my favorite. It does a great job (on the jewelry & the dishes)! It's safe on most gemstones, pearls and clay. It's gentler on your skin. I'll discuss a few commercial cleaners below.

My favorite Wire Jewelry Cleaning Tools…
A SOFT toothbrush, an artists paint brush, a cotton-flannel cloth, & a polishing cloth. I have also started using Q-Tips in place ofthe artist's paintbrush--they work quite well on delicate items!
Cover the drain, in case you drop your jewelry.
Run luke-warm water at a gentle stream.
Rub soap on the stone with your fingers or soft artist paint brush, I do NOT recommend brushing gems unless you know they are hard and can tolerate brushing…many stones can NOT be brushed.
Use the artists paintbrush (or Qtip) on the entire piece of jewelry if it has fine gauge wire or has delicate designs or stones—to avoid bending, scratching, or damaging the wire or gemstone.
Use the toothbrush or paintbrush to brush soap on GENTLY on the wire, taking care not to catch the bristles between the wires. Moving the brush perpendicular to the direction of the wires helps avoid snagging bristles between them.
Rinse thoroughly with water and pat dry with paper towel or a non-snagging cotton cloth.
Once the jewelry has thoroughly dried, you can buff it gently with a polishing cloth.
HINT- If tarnish is stubborn, I brush the soap on, let it sit for 5-10 minutes and rinse with water.
HINT- I DO NOT RECOMMEND TOOTHPASTE! IT IS ABRASIVE AND DIFFICULT TO CLEAN OFF WIRE WRAPPED JEWELRY!

About Liquid Commercial Jewelry Cleaners…
There are 3 main types of liquid jewelry cleaner readily available in the store…Silver Cleaner, General Purpose Jewelry Cleaner, & Delicate Jewelry Cleaner….
Delicate Jewelry Cleaner or Pearl Cleaner-The safest bet of the 3 types of liquid cleaner for any gemstone jewelry. I think most of these are diluted soap, but they work without damaging most gems.
General Purpose Jewelry Cleaner- This is a general purpose jewelry cleaner to use with caution—many stones cannot tolerate this jewelry cleaner, most contain Ammonia. Ammonia is acidic and can pit or damage many gemstones.
Silver Cleaner- I do NOT recommend using silver cleaner on any jewelry containing gemstones or pieces that are not solid sterling silver! It is a very harsh acidic cleaner! I almost never use silver cleaner; I basically use it as a last resort on OLD sterling silver chains needing serious cleaning.

Soft or Delicate Gemstones
Below is a list of gemstones I suggest you use only SOAP & WATER and NO HARSH BRUSHING to clean them! This list is not absolute… I'm sure there are more stones out there that I have not worked with or even heard of. This list should still be quite helpful to many of you who are not sure.

Amber (do not soak, just wet to clean & dry thoroughly)
Aquamarine
Charoite
Chrysocolla
Chrysoprase
Dyed or Treated Gemstones
Emerald
Eudialyte
Fluorite
Hemimorphite
Inlay Jewelry
Kunzite
Kyanite
Lapis Lazuli
Malachite
Opals (some may not be washed at all-they can lose their fire, use caution)
Pearls
Polymer Clay
Selenite
Seraphinite
Shell Cameo
Shell,Ivory,Bone,Horn,Coral
Sodalite
Sugilite
Tanzanite
Tourmaline
Turquoise

Wire Wrapped Jewelry Care…
We package each of our jewelry creations in a cotton lined box and an organza bag. We recommend you store it in this box or bag to protect it and ensure it will last a lifetime. If not stored properly any of your jewelry can be damaged or lose its color or luster.
Avoid scenarios that can crush or catch delicate or filigreed wire wrapped jewelry (beware of open weave sweaters and reaching into the washing machine with certain filigree designs).
Do not throw jewelry into a drawer or pile with other jewelry or things that can damage it.
Avoid storing in direct sunlight, excessive heat, cold, or area with extreme temperature changes (ie-near windows,vents,ducts).
Do not expose to harsh chemicals or household cleaners.
Remove when applying hairspray, perfume, lotion or any skincare/makeup.
Do not swim wearing jewelry, chlorine can pit gold, silver, & gems.
I hope you find these wire wrapped jewelry care tips helpful. I will add new information as I acquire it. Please visit our Ebay store for heirloom quality wire wrapped jewelry created to last a lifetime! If you have any questions or suggestions please contact me, I’ll be happy to answer them for you! Kristie-Lou, A.K.A. Sculpted Windows Jewelry . Please don't forget to give us a "YES" vote at the bottom of this page if you found it helpful--just click "yes"--there's no strings attached! Thank you & we'll keep the info coming!

making more stock for the jewelry sales busy busy

I do and I've found a lot of great deals on vintage bead and crystal necklaces on ebay. I have found Austrian crystal strands for a tenth of the price of new beads alone. Old plastics have surprising colors and textures you won't find in today's jewelry. Some simulated pearls are as beautiful as the real thing. There's just something about the richness and glamour of old beads that makes them stand out from the crowd.

Unfortunately, many old bead necklaces have problems. Stringing materials deteriorate, break or warp. Clasps break or acquire verdigris (that icky greenish crud on metal). Or the strands might be too short. Many of the necklaces from the 1930s and 1940s are only 14" long with the extender, and that's too short for me.

If your bead necklace has problems, don't toss it and don't pull out the sewing thread to jerry-rig it back together. With a few basic tools and easily obtained supplies you can restring your necklace, making it stronger than before.

Step by step restringing



Step One: Clean your beads. Body oils, cosmetics, and time can dull crystals and make the beads look cruddy. There are many good guides on ebay about cleaning vintage jewelry. My rule is, use the gentlest methods to start, such as Connoisseurs Delicate Jewelry Cleaner and a baby's first toothbrush. Glass and crystal will stand up to vigorous cleaning. Be very careful with simulated pearls and plastics. Test first on a single bead to make certain you won't harm the finish.

Special Note: This guide is for necklaces that only need restringing. I will talk about replacing clasps and remaking adjustor chains in another guide.



Step Two: Gather your supplies.

Stringing material. The best are nylon coated cable beading strands. These come in different weights, strengths and colors. Recommended brands are Soft Flex, Acculon or Beadalon. They come on spools and are readily available at bead stores and hobby and craft stores. DO NOT use thread since it will fray or break.
Chainnose pliers and cutters. Many craft suppliers have small kits with inexpensive pliers and cutters that are suitable for occasional jewelry repair. A good tool for jewelry repair is a crimping tool (the black tool in the picture), but that is optional.
Bead tips. These have a clam-shell or a cup to hold a stop bead and a hook to attach it to the clasp.
Crimp beads. Soft metal beads with large holes that are mashed against the stringing material to hold it.
Glass seed beads. If you need to lengthen your necklace, use glass seed beads as spacers. They come in all colors and finishes to match your beads.
A beading board or mat for a work surface. I use a Vellux pad. A flocked beading board with channels is excellent for keeping your beads and supplies organized. Any cloth with a nap will work to keep your beads from rolling off the table.
TIP: Bead stores are springing up all over the place. Many of them offer space and the use of their tools to restring or repair your beaded jewelry. They also have knowledgable staff for expert advice, and of course, it's a bead store so you can buy everything you need in the quantity you need.



Step Three: Take the necklace apart. This is the scary part for many, but if you work slowly and use either a beading board or napped pad, you can keep the beads under control.

Most strands are finished with bead tips that attach to the clasps and/or extender chains. Use the chainnose pliers to open the loop on the bead tips and unhook them from the clasp ends. Set the clasps and/or chains aside.
Lay out the strand on the mat or in a beading board channel and clip one end of the string.
Keeping the beads in order, remove them from the string.
TIP: If you are restringing a multi-strand necklace, work on one strand at a time. Trust me, removing all the strings from all the strands at one time is just asking for trouble!



Step four: String the beads.

This type of beading material does not require a needle. It is stiff enough to slide through the bead holes.
Work off the spool and don't put any tension on the string as that might cause warps or kinks.
If lengthening the necklace, string a seed bead between each of the original beads.
When all the beads are strung, lay out the strand and double-check to make sure the pattern is correct and all the beads are where you want them.


Step Five: Crimp the ends of the strand and attach the clasp.

On the working end of the string (which is beaded and still attached to the spool) string on a crimp bead, a bead tip and a seed bead.
Pass back through the hole in the bead tip, leaving the seed bead to catch inside, and pass back through the crimp. Work gently here to keep from kinking the string.
Snug the seed bead inside the bead tip and snug the crimp bead up against the bead tip.
With the pliers gently mash the crimp bead against the stringing material.
For added hold, put a drop of glue or nail polish inside the bead tip before closing it over the seed bead.
Slide a bead over the tail of the stringing material, then clip the string close to the bead so the tail is tucked inside. Be careful not to clip your strand string!
On the other end, clip the string material from the spool, leaving about a two inch tail. Hold the strand up so the beads settle naturally on the string without being so tight they warp or so loose there is exposed stringing material.
Repeat the finishing steps on this end.
If you use clam-shell type bead tips, close them over the seed beads.
Hook the bead tips onto the clasp and use the pliers to close the loops.


Voila'! Your necklace is now strong, graceful and ready to wear. More tips and how-tos can be found in such magazines as Beadwork, Bead & Button, and Step-by-Step Beads.

Selecting the right kind, size of jewelry to wear each day

If you are reading this guide you already know how difficult it is to buy on Ebay for the simple fact that not everything is what people say it is. It is your job as a consumer and a smart shopper to make sure you do your homework. Whether the item is $10 or $1,000 you should always make sure you are getting what you are paying for. Because of my own recent transactions that turned out to be something other than what I agreed to buy I am making a point to help others.

*Something to keep in mind: Juicy does NOT sell their items wholesale so if a seller has 25 of one item, be wary and ask questions. They may have a cousin whos a regional manager for Nordstrom and gets products 70% off, but thats pretty rare. There are lots of websites online that wholesale REPLICA Juicy items.

When buying Juicy Couture please check the following:

*Get as many pictures as possible. Even if theres 1 or 2 pictures it doesnt mean its fake or theres a problem with it, if there truly is nothing wrong with the item a simple message to the seller asking for additional pictures is justified and a good seller would be more than happy to send more to hopefully make the sale.

*Ask for measurements, a lot of Juicy stuff is at discount stores because its irregular size, or missing buttons, or the color is off, any little thing will pull an item from being sold in high end stores and discount it to a second-tier store, that doesnt mean anything is wrong with it, just a little something may be off. For example, I recieved a tank that is a small, yet the inner white tag said its an XL and it was extremely wide. So ask for measurements and whatnot to confirm the product is normal.

*Beware of items that only show pictures of the item on a celebrity. As far as I know you will not be getting a celebrity in the mail so theres no reason to not ask for pictures of the ACTUAL item the seller is selling.

*Beware of items that seem unusually cheap, whether its a handbag or Juicy outfit, Juicy Couture is expensive and no seller would buy something for a couple hundred dollars and be ok with selling it for $50. If its too good to be true, IT IS!

*In 2003 Juicy Couture was bought out by Liz Claiborne. In her company doing so Juicy Couture stopped being made only in the Glamorous USA and is now born here, but made in East Asia. If a seller has something up and they are saying its BRAND NEW, JUST RELEASED, etc and it has a colored tag on it (neon pink, orange, beige, baby blue, or green) its not authentic. I've recieved many items that were fake and had the Juicy labels sewn in, both fake labels and real ones off of other pieces. In this case you always want to ask for a picture of the white inner tag thats down the left side of all Juicy garments (except pants). These tags have the style #, cut #, care instructions, fabric, and size on it. ALWAYS ASK FOR PICTURES OF THIS TAG.

*Any items from 2006ish and up should have pink and brown tags, they are square and have the Juicy scottie logo in them and are trimmed in brown, and then theres a small tab on the side that says where the item was made. The new pieces still have the long white tag on the inner left side too.

*Juicy hoodies, older styles (before the Liz Claiborne buy out) are made from 80% cotton and 20% polyester regardless of whether its velour, terry, or fleece. Ive seen newer ones made with 90% cotton 10% poly and those all came directly from Bloomingdales so I know they are authentic.

*If your Juicy tracksuit comes in this plasticy vinyl bag that has a red, white, and blue Juicy scottie logo on the outside don't even ponder its authenticity, because it is fake. This too has happened to me and without even opening the bag I knew it was fake. These little short/hoodie sets with the flower and butterfly embroidery that come in white, yellow, pink, are fake.

*Again it takes a while for replicators to replicate a Juicy piece, so the older suits like the royalty ones, the ones with the number 83, the bling bling ones, were all styles from about 2 years ago, beware of them esp. if they say BNWT. It is very likey that a seller is selling her own pieces because she simply doesnt want them anymore and obviously they will be used, but again what woman would spend $200-250 on a tracksuit and keep it in her closet for years with the tags attached??

*Make sure anything that says BNWT, handbags, clothes, anything has an actual price tag! The black and gold logo tags are being sold by themselves on Ebay and its not difficult to punch it through an outfit. Make sure theres a price tag, and the numbers/letters in the upper left hand corner should coordinate with the style # on the inner white tag.

*Any pieces with the pink and brown labels and are BNWT should have a pink ribbon that says Juicy Couture in gold lettering with a heart at each end, its a thick ribbon kind of like one you would get for winning a spelling bee or something, and that takes the place of those gold/black logo tags. NO newer pieces from 2005 and up should have the black/gold logo tags on them.

*Anything made in 2006 and on should say Love G&P not P&G, we all know about the lawsuit from proctor and gamble against Pamela and Gela, so the letters have been switched.

*For the fall collection of 2007 (right now ladies, keep an eye out) the pink ribbons have been replaced with a square piece of cardboard that is brown with black trim, says choose juicy in pink bold letters on one side, and has the Juicy storybook logo on the other side.

handbags:

*Juicy NEVER wraps their items in plastic, EVER. The handles dont come wrapped in it either. If you get one thats a fresh shipment it should have tissue paper taped on all the zippers to prevent scratching. There is always Juicy tissue paper stuffed inside every pocket as well as the inside of the bag to retain its shape.

*Never buy anything from overseas, its probably a really good deal because its fake. This again is general but Ive recieved 2 bags already from China and they were very fake. One was dropshipped (bought from a lady in Ohio and she paid some online company to ship it to me directly from China. This is VERY prevolent on Ebay.) and they other was from someone in California who traveled to Asia a lot.

*Any bag that is oddly brightly colored is probably a fake. Juicy coordinates all their colors with a name, rarely will you ever see, except black, something Juicy that says "pink", "green", etc. pink is either gelato for clothing, or crystal for accessories, so make sure if a tag is included that it says the color name. Their typical colors are the crystal, black, brown, neutral, the red leather ones from this past season, and then of course the daydreamers vary upon season.

*About 99% of the daydreamers I have seen on Ebay are replicas, Especially any advertised as brand new with tags and they are older styles and prints, they are fake. It takes China about a year give or take a little to replicate a bag so if you know you saw the bag 2 years ago at Nordstrom and its on Ebay BNWT, its most likely a replica. I dont know any woman who would spend $200 on a bag and leave it in her closet with the tags, tissue, and all for 2 years. Dont buy a daydreamer, just please, unless its for your 14 year old buy something that looks classy like one of Juicys leather bags or the newer G&P handbags (much more costly, but gorgeous)

*Be smart. If you are going to invest $100, $200, $300+ in a handbag take 10 minutes and go to nordstrom.com, saksfifthavenue.com, revolveclothing.com, neimanmarcus.com, bloomingdales.com, shopbop.com and check out their stuff look at the colors, prices, stiching, etc. If you arent smart about shopping on Ebay you will get ripped off.

*That hangtag that has the heart at the end with the J I have not seen on any newer bags, those are mainly are the bags that are a year older and more, the ruby tuesday bag and the daydreamers for example. The heart should not be flat at the top, it should look like a heart, and the J should be an actual normal looking J, use common sense, if it looks weird, then IT IS FOR A REASON.

*The inside of the bags are NEVER just plain brown, black, beige, anything fabric. They are almost always beige, and honestly beige, not this puke green color or brown, lining with Juicy written in these gothic letters in a color that coordinates with the outside color the bag. Black bag, black letters, white or pink bag, pink letters, you get it. The new G&P bags have a gorgeous dusty purple satin material with no lettering.

*All Juicy's bags are made with genuine leather, even the daydreamers have leather handles and bottoms, if it comes smelling like plastic or gasoline beware because its pvc leather-like material.

*Be wary of the rabbit fur hoodies. Those are an older style, not within the past 2 years, and they are a lot of fake ones on Ebay. Ask for tons of pictures and even a copy of a reciept or invoice from where they bought it.

*Always pay with paypal. Its free for buyers so there is NO reason you shouldnt have an account. I know its online and putting your account info online makes people antsy, but nowadays with credit card protection if someone steals it and charges it up, you wont be liable for it. Sign up and go through paypal because if it turns out that its authentic or broken, file a dispute and paypal will do the right thing. Ive always gotten my money back when I used paypal.

Charms:

*As far as Juicy's charms go I haven't recieved any or seen very many fake ones on Ebay. I have see the wording "Fits Juicy couture charm bracelet" which I would hope you wouldnt buy thinking it was an authentic Juicy charm.

*Like the rest of Juicy's pieces, the charms are VERY unique and detailed, they always have little sayings on them, are painted very detailed, have rhinestones, etc. Again go on some reputable websites and look at their charms. I wouldnt advise buying charms on Ebay unless they are discontinued, because many sellers on here charge more than the MSRP on them for whatever reason when they are not "sold out" they are still in the stores.



Thanks for reading ladies and guys are out there who got sucked into buying your wonderful ladies Juicy Couture. Please be sure to leave me a rating as I provided a very detailed guide for you. Happy and safe shopping, please let me know if I could ever assist you with any hesitations. Thank you!

Forever 21 jewelry stone chandelier dangle pendientes

Stones and rhinestones in vintage jewelry that are glued, will occasionally come loose. That is because the glue that holds the stone in place has become old and is brittle and not enough glue was originally placed in the setting, or the stone was not seated well and snagged on something. Sometimes just jarring them will break stones loose. I have had customers ask me how to re-glue stones that have fallen out, so I wrote this guide in hopes to help save some beautiful vintage jewelry. This is a simple how-to guide to re-glue the stones that have fallen out. If you find it helpful, please vote yes at the bottom of this page. Thanks!

First let me say, when you receive a piece in the mail, always open it carefully and over a white cloth in case a stone has jarred loose in shipping, which by the way happens quite often since packages really get tossed around in transit.

If you have the stone it is easy to replace.



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I use Duco cement, it is quick drying (and highly flammable so use precautions).

Do not use Super Glue, it can damage the stones.

Use glue sparingly as not to let glue seep around the edges of the stone when you push the stone back in.



You can use a toothpick to place a small amount of glue in the setting.

Remember to work fairly quickly as the glue dries fast.



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Lightly moisten the tip of your finger and grab the top of the stone and place it point down into the setting.



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You can use a clean toothpick to position the stone. Then let it dry at least 24 hours.



Another tip, if part of the foil backing is on the stone and the other part is in the setting, try to align them the same when you replace the stone, otherwise the stone can loose some luster.

Important: I am speaking from experience here, make sure that you use a cloth to cover your work area. Rhinestones are tiny and when dropped, you'd be surprised at how much they can bounce, and usually it's off the table and onto the floor! Nothing is more frustrating than having to get on your hands and knees to search for a tiny rhinestone on the floor or in the carpet. If this happens, keep in mind that they will bounce on the floor, too. I have found them a long way from my work area. If I am re-gluing a rhinestone back onto a $200.00 piece, then that rhinestone has just become a $200.00 rhinestone! So I will get on my hands and knees and look for it until I find it.

If you're like me and can't see small items very well, you can buy inexpensive generic reading glasses in a large magnification that will work well for close-up work.

I also recommend that at first you practice this on inexpensive jewelry like the one in the photo, before repairing your better pieces. That way you can experiment on the amount of glue and positioning of the stones. Once you get the hang of, it will be easy for you.

As for preventive measures, the best thing to do is check each stone under a magnifier for loose stones, if the stone has prongs have them tightened. If the stones are glued, check to see if the stones are seated well in the setting. If you don't feel comfortable repairing your jewelry and the piece is a nice collectable piece, take it to a qualified jeweler for suggestions and find one that has some experience in rhinestone costume jewelry mainly because of the glue and the foil backing.

If you have pieces that have missing stones that you can't replace, you can list them on eBay as repair pieces, and if they are collectable pieces, you will still get a good price for them as the replacement stones are hard to find.

If you like vintage costume jewelry, check out my ebay auctions. I buy a lot of vintage jewelry from estates and usually have some nice pieces on auction. The link is under my photo in the upper right hand side of this guide.

I have written other guides, please feel free to view them as well. Just click on the li

Are you interested in jewelry making?

It is important to understand diamond quality any time you are buying
diamond jewelry; whether rings, earrings, bracelets or necklaces.
Bands, wedding bands, wedding rings, engagement rings, watches and bangles...
all are enhanced by a beautiful diamond! Discount diamonds, set in 10k
or 14k gold... nothing beats the combination of quality and
wholesale diamonds.

Diamonds, diamonds, diamonds and more diamonds! Here
is a guide to understanding the "4 C's" of diamond grading: Cut, Color,
Clarity and Carat.

Cut refers to the facet arrangement, proportions and shape of the
diamond. Brilliant cuts usually have 58 facets, 33 on the crown
upper part) and 25 on the pavilion (lower part) of the diamond and
are oriented around a common center point. The largest facet is
the table, and the bottom facet (sometimes pointed) is the culet.
The narrow middle part is the girdle and is often faceted as well.
Baguettes and emerald cuts have parallel facets and are sometimes
called step cut. Careful placement of the facets (faces or sides)
determines how well the diamond sparkles (brilliance) and shows the
rainbow of colors (dispersion). All diamonds are not well-cut
because the cutter is working to make the diamond as large as
possible from the rough material. Usually a diamond loses about
half of its original size in the cutting process.

Clarity is the measure of imperfections in the diamond. Less
than 1/4 of diamonds mined are suitable for jewelry because of the
flaws, and even 80% of gem quality diamonds have characteristics
that are visible without magnification. Diamonds without flaws
are quite rare and thus more expensive. Availability increases
as flaws become more apparent in the diamond, and prices decrease
due to the reduced rarity. The clarity is graded in the "face up"
position with 10x magnification. The scale begins with Flawless
(Fl) and descends through (VVS1) and (VVS2), very very slightly
included; (VS1) and (VS2), very slightly included; (SI1) and
(SI2), slightly included; and (I1), (I2), and (I3), the included
(eye-visible) grades. Internal characteristics become increasingly
noticeable with each lower grade. Flaws in the last two grades
threaten beauty and/or durability.

Color in diamonds means the body color or tint. It does not
refer to the prism of colors emanating from a well-cut diamond.
The most common colors for diamonds are yellow and brown, but
they can be any color - even black. White diamonds are actually
rather unusual but are the most preferred. Since they are more
rare and more desired they are more expensive, too. Grading of
color is done with 10x magnification through the pavilion against
a white background. Color masters are often used for comparison
to determine the exact color grade or tone of color that the
diamond shows. The grading scale begins with (D) and ends with
(Z). (D), (E) and sometimes (F) are considered colorless; (G-J),
near colorless; (K-M), faint tint; (N-R), very light tint; (S-Z),
light tint. Each letter represents a slightly darker tone but
does not identify the hue. Diamonds darker than (Z) are considered
fancy and are specially marketed for their particular color.

Carat is strictly the weight of the diamond. The carat is 1/5
of a gram and is divided into 100 points. Thus, one carat can
be expressed as 1.00 carat or 100 points. Measurements can be
used to estimate the weight of mounted diamonds.



(Karat is a definition of gold purity. 24 karat gold is pure
gold; 14 karat means 14 parts out of 24 are gold with the balance
other metals. Most jewelry is made of alloyed gold to enhance
durability, reduce the cost and determine the color. For example,
nickel or palladium mixed with pure gold makes white gold, which
is harder than yellow gold and considered more attractive for
some diamonds and gemstones. Finished jewelry and gold are usually
weighed in grams.)

Bridal Jewelry Style – Suggestions On Finding The Perfect, Special Search For Your Wedding

The Obvious - The Disney Parks

The most obvious spot to buy Disney collectible pins is at the various parks.

Although there are some pin designs that are sold at all the parks, the majority of pins produced can be found exclusively at certain parks. This is even true within Walt Disney World. There are core pins sold in all four parks, but are also pins exclusive to certain WDW parks.

In fact, there are certain pins - Surprise Releases especially - that may only be released and sold at one specific location in the entire resort!

One of the hidden secrets of Disney pin collecting is found at the Disney hotels. Certain pins - some of them quite rare - can be found only at a particular Disney resort. Quantities are sometimes limited on these pins, since there is a smaller number of people who see them. (And in the process, you may discover some really cool resorts to lodge at in the future.)

The Disney Store in Downtown Disney brings out a pin book and lets people trade at a certain time in the afternoon. Guest Relations in each park also has a book. Even in the Confectioner's Shoppe on Main Street USA there's a book (since Cast Members there can't wear lanyards). Each resort's gift shop should also have a book for glancing. More expensive resorts also tend to have better pins (at least in my experience)...

Something new I've noticed is that at various kiosks within the park, the traditional lanyard has been replaced with a one- or two-page book. This is easier for Cast Members to deal with, and more variety for traders (though it's hard to see if they have a book).

Another great source comes with special events. Whether it be a Pin Celebration, or coordination with something like Mickey's Very Merry Christmas Party, special pins are regularly released in lower edition sizes.

Current parks are:

Disneyland
Disney's California Adventure
Walt Disney World (Magic Kingdom / Epcot / Disney's Hollywood Studios / Animal Kingdom)
Disneyland Paris (Previously known as EuroDisney)
Tokyo Disneyland
Disneyland Hong Kong
DisneyAuctions, DisneyShopping and Disney Catalog

For years, DisneyAuctions.com was the place to buy highly limited edition pins. In 2006, as popularity weakened though, the site was discontinued and now such items are sold through DisneyShopping.com.

Disney Catalog is now also DisneyShopping.com. For some reason, there has been a stigma against pins from Disney Catalog, but in the past 12 months that seems to have changed as more limited edition pins have been marketed through DisneyShopping. One of DisneyShopping's biggest ploys is to offer Mystery Sets, where the buyer gets four pins of various edition sizes, but the buyer doesn't know what they'll get until the package arrives. Basically, it's playing the lottery except with pins.

The Disney Store / Disney Soda Fountain / Disney Gallery / WDCC / World of Disney / Walt Disney Studios Burbank / Disney Family Museum

Different stores with a common purpose: Selling Disney products and to promote the Disney Parks.

While The Disney Store caters to the traditional mall crowd, selling predominantly children's clothing and toys (as well as some adult items, music, movies and collectibles), the Disney Galleries are more high-brow; they concentrate on artwork, figurines and collectible pins. The Walt Disney Collectors Club and Collectors Society were ran through the Galleries.

It should be noted that although the USA Disney Stores have lessened their heavy pin activity, pins at the Japan Disney Stores have really taken off. Japan also boasts the M&P stores which offer lots of rare pin sets. In addition, there are some releases of pins exclusive to the UK Disney Stores.

The World of Disney - which can be found at Walt Disney World's Downtown Disney but as famously at 5th Ave. & 55th St. in New York City - is a spot for some exclusive pins as well. It should be noted that Disney's lease at this location is ending soon, and the company will not be renewing it. It is thought that Disney will find another property closer to the theatre district to replace it.

A newer endeavor for Disney is the Disney Soda Fountain, located next to the El Capitan Theatre on Hollywood Blvd. in Hollywood, Calif. A cross between an old-time ice cream parlor and a studio store, it has become the new hot spot for limited edition pins.

Other, Less Known Pin Opportunities

There are several other places where pins are (or have been) available, often overlooked by collectors.

Disney Cruise Line - Some of the most highly sought pins are the Artist Choice pins released on the Disney Magic and Wonder ships. Look especially for pins released during pin events on these ships, where low edition sizes are king.

Company D - This is strictly a Cast Member store. Although only CMs can purchase pins there, these pins many times end up on eBay for sale.

Mickey's of Glendale - Similar to Company D, this is the Imagineering Cast Member Store (WDI). In recent years, more and more pins have come from this site.

Target - Yes, Target...the department store. A special line of pins was released there. Though these pins were originally released nationwide, it appears that Disney has cut back on the locations that carry these pins, concentrating on Orlando / Kissimmee stores.

Jerry Leigh - In 2006, Jerry Leigh became an official licensee of Disney pins. These were predominantly sold in shops in and around Orlando. I was skeptical about these pins at first, but have been pleasantly surprised by their quality. Sadly, it appears that the company has backed away from the release of pins, so it will be interesting to see how rare these low edition size pins will become.

Willabee & Ward - A new licensee as of 2006, Willabee & Ward offered 2 pins each month for a series of 50 pins. At $13.95 per pin, a bit pricy, but the trader boards seem to highly value these pins.

Other Countries - This is where the quality of pins rise or fall on the various companies that produced the pins. Most of these companies no longer make Disney pins, but in their time they were significant contributors to Disney pin collecting. Official licensees included ProPin (Germany), Bertoni (Italy) and Sedesma (Spain). In addition, questionable sources of pins are produced in South America, Russia, Yugoslavia and other countries. Most of these latter sources are considered Unauthorized pins or bootlegs.

Department Store Jewelry Lines - Disney has produced multiple lines of jewelry for sale in department stores. Some of the lines include Applause Mickey Unlimited, Ooops and Napier (to name a few).

Official Sponsors - Finally, there are several organizations which got permission to market pins with Disney characters. Though you have to be very careful on these (since there are many bootlegs), the real pins are many times quite stunning. Groups include Coca-Cola, The Lions Club, Suntrust Bank, Hallmark, Long's Drugstore, McDonald, Kodak, Eckerd Drugs, Nike, HSN, Hawaiian Airlines, Alaska Airlines, Disney Subsidiaries (such as Disney Channel, Disney On Ice, Adventures by Disney and Disney on Broadway) and the U.S. Postal Service (among others).

Walt Disney's influence has penetrated into virtually every area of this "Small World." And there are pins to prove it. Obviously, you can find virtually ANYTHING on eBay, no matter where it originally came from. So sharpen your pencils and start searching!

I forgot all my jewelry today.... rushing for this dang bus.

THIS IS A GENERAL VINTAGE JEWELRY BIDDING GUIDE.

Red flags in Listings, and Specific Issues Related to Costume Jewelry, ETC...

RHINESTONES

Many people use a flash when taking pictures. This can cause a problem with vintage jewelry in general, because you can no longer tell what the true condition is. BEWARE of photos taken with a flash when there are rhinestones, because this additional light completely distorts the color of most rhinestones. You can't tell if the stones are yellow, dead, darkened, or fine. Opinions seem to vary widely when describing the condition of rhinestones, so it's best to rely mainly on available photos. And hopefully they are close ups! But make sure not to depend on pics if they were taken with a flash.

(SEE MY PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS GUIDE)

BEADED JEWELRY

Much of the time it isn't entirely obvious which beads are plastic and which are glass. Some excellent sellers automatically make the distinction for you. Otherwise, please ask. So many vintage plastic beads look like glass! That is, until you have paid for them and can examine the pieces up close.

JEWELRY LOTS

Usually there are photos, but if there is only one picture for an entire group of jewelry then that's a big red flag! It's pretty much bid at your own risk. The problem with many of these lots is that the condition is based on the viewpoint of the seller. I'm not saying anyone is right or wrong... But you definitely need to find a seller with a similar viewpoint as yours. For example, maybe a piece has no stones missing but it is relatively dirty or color is flaking off a bit. Someone may call that excellent condition with slight vintage wear. Or someone like me might toss it in a junk pile.

If you see jewelry selling with absolutely NO returns, that usually isn't a very good sign at all. In fact, that's a terrible sign. If something is misrepresented or broken, you are stuck with it.

I just noticed that an ebay seller wrote, "BID WITH CONFIDENCE. NO RETURNS OR REFUNDS." So that's telling everyone to bid with the confidence that if you aren't happy you are totally on your own.

CRAFT/REPAIR OR JUNK JEWELRY LOTS

TRASH OR TREASURE???

These particular lots can actually be the most fun for someone who likes digging through STUFF. You never know what you'll find. And often there is only a brief, mysterious sentence or two for a description. These lots are an exception to the return policy rule. It's a known fact that you are bidding at your own risk for this stuff, and it's rare that anyone will take it back. Ok...some of us will. There may be some risk here, but there can be big rewards!

I do have some hints for you that will hopefully increase the chances of choosing treasure. I've noticed that ebay is FULL of these types of lots!

Most importantly, look for the lots where the sellers give you the AMOUNT of jewelry. It doesn't matter if it's pounds or pieces. If a seller just says this is a big box that is heavy or full of stuff then you are really taking a chance by bidding. How heavy? OR how big is the box?

Sometimes you'll find many pounds of stuff, but it includes a heavy jewelry box or boxes. Even a bunch of light, small boxes add up if people are including

More Fashion Jewelry: Guess Leather Collection Gift Set White Dial Women's watch

DEAD PAWN JEWELRY. For the Southwestern Native Americans, pawn refers to the practice of converting artwork and possessions into cash. In times of need, jewelry and other items of value can be easily used as security with an authorized trader (pawned) for cash to meet the current crisis. These items serve as the family "reserve" or "emergency" fund. Pawn is also used by many Native Americans in the same way that a safety deposit box would be used. The jewelry is "pawned" for safe keeping in between religious ceremonies or other special occasions. The lender keeps it for the agreed amount of time, and if the loan or pawn fees are not paid off by the agreed date, the pawn shop or trader is authorized to sell the jewelry. If jewelry is not redeemed by its owner by the expiration date, the piece is referred to as Dead Pawn.



FRED HARVEY ERA. The Santa Fe Railway and the Fred Harvey Company with its hotels, restaurants, and shops joined forces to promote mass tourism to the Grand Canyon, New Mexico, and Southern California by train over the years from 1896 through the mid-1960s when rail travel mostly died out. No one did more than Fred Harvey to introduce the superb art of the Southwest's Native Americans to the rest of the nation by packaging the Southwest as a leisure-time destination. The Fred Harvey Company, as it "civilized" the southwest, enticed American tourists to visit. As part of the business, Navajo and Pueblo silversmiths (as well as other craftsmen) were hired to create souvenirs. The Harvey Company supplied the artisans with sheet silver and pre-cut turquoise. The downside of course was that because of the quantity of trinkets needed and the type of material supplied, the quality of the jewelry diminished. Nonetheless, Fred Harvey jewelry is still very popular today.

COIN SILVER, STERLING SILVER, MEXICAN SILVER.
STERLING SILVER is 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper. Today most Sterling silver objects are usually stamped with either the word "Sterling" or ".925". But a great majority of the older Native American handcrafted jewelry was unsigned and unmarked.
COIN SILVER is 90% silver and 10% copper. Coin Silver is lower grade than sterling. The Coin Silver standard was established in the US in the 1820s. This grade of silver was used in the silver coinage of the US hence the term "coin" silver. Before the practice was outlawed, I believe Native Americans would sometimes melt down silver coins and reuse them to create jewelry.
MEXICAN SILVER is purer than sterling, usually 95% Silver and 5% Copper.



TURQUOISE : NATURAL, TREATED, STABILIZED, ENHANCED. Generally, turquoise can exist in one of two forms. Natural or virgin turquoise has simply been shaped and polished, and has not been treated in any way. Treated turquoise has been changed through addition or processing. This procedure will make the sensitive gemstone sturdier. While natural turquoise is often the most desirable, keep in mind that simply because turquoise is treated, it does not mean it is of lower quality. In fact, stabilization usually enhances the quality of the stone making the color more vibrant and the stone harder and less prone to chips and cracks.

Among the ways of treating turquoise, treatments can include wax, staining, plastics impregnation or colloidal silica deposition. These methods stabilize the turquoise, and when successful, they darken the color and fill in the pores in the stone. Stabilizing treatments can also increase stone hardness and therefore its shearing strength, making it easier for artisans to work with it. However, the kind of treatment differs considerably. It makes sense, that naturally beautiful stones which have simply been waxed or hardened with artificial resin achieve higher prices and are more valuable than stones that have received color-enhancement.

JEWELRY MAKING TERMS.
BEZEL. A thin strip of silver around a stone that is soldered to the silver base. It can be flat, scalloped or saw-toothed.
INLAY. A design of individually cut pieces of shell or stone, set next to one another, then ground flat on top and level with the surrounding silver.
CHANNEL INLAY. A design of shell or stone set with a silver bezel between each stone. The stones are sanded level and polished.
ETCHED INLAY. Ornamentation where a picture or design is etched into the surface of the stone or inlay.




PETIT POINT. An oval stone ground to a fine point at one end, rounded at the other end and set in a silver bezel.

NEEDLEPOINT. An oval stone ground to fine points at both ends and set in a silver bezel.

SNAKE EYE. A series of very small, round stones, each of which is set in a bezel.

CLUSTER. A group of large tear-drop or round stones individually set in silver bezels, usually clustered around a single center stone or medallion.

HEISHI. Shell that has been cut, drilled and ground into round pieces and strung on a necklace. One strand may consist of several hundred pieces.
REPOUSSE. A metalworking technique in which a malleable metal is ornamented or shaped by hammering from the reverse side.
CHASING. Chasing is the opposite technique to repoussé, and the two are used in conjunction to create a finished piece. While repoussé is used to work on the reverse of the metal to form a raised design on the front, chasing is used to refine the design from the front of the work by sinking the metal with a groove, furrow, channel or indentation. ANTIQUING. Technically referred to as oxidization, antiquing is a process of darkening silver with a chemical to create contrast or to accent a silverwork design. This process also gives the silver an antiqued look.

SILVER OVERLAY TECHNIQUE. This technique uses multiple layers of sterling silver soldered together to create a three dimensional effect. The top layer is a handmade, hand cut overlay created from a sheet of sterling that is then bonded to the base layer of sterling. The base layer background is usually oxidized, which turns the silver surface black, and is often scratched or stamped. The oxidation brings out a contrast between the two pieces and makes the individual designs more visible.

HERE'S A GREAT EXAMPLE OF SILVER OVERLAY TECHNIQUE BY NAVAJO ARTIST TOMMY SINGER


CAST or SANDCAST. One early technique still used by Navajo silversmiths is making silver castings in sand or stone molds. The artist carves a design into damp sand or tufa (a porous volcanic stone). Pumice or sandstone may also be used. A second flat stone is secured on top to complete the mold. Silver is then melted in a crucible and it is poured into the mold through a carved channel. If it is the proper temperature, it flows through to the bottom where it cools and hardens, filling the design space. Air vents allow steam to escape, preventing air bubbles from forming in the cooling silver. After cooling, the stones are separated and the casting is removed. Any silver not part of the overall design is cut off. The silver is then filed smooth. At this point the finishing begins with filing, stamp work, soldering on findings. adding stones. cleaning and buffing.



The piece poured from the tufa mold can be used as a model when a design turns out attractive. It is possible to repeat the design over indefinitely using casting sand. The model is placed face up at the bottom of a frame. The casting sand is pounded down over the model until the frame is filled and firmly packed. The frame is covered with plywood cut to size to keep the sand from falling out. The mold is turned over so that the model can be removed. After it is carefully lifted out of the sand, all that's left is the impression. Another frame is filled with sand and pounded until firmly packed. This frame is the smooth side of the mold. It is also covered with plywood and turned over. The surface is smoothed out so it is perfectly flat. From here the method of preparing the mold and pouring are the same as tufa.

Saturday, August 27, 2011

Shopping today after the wedding new phone n new computer! God is good

Opera singers in congregation at yesterday's wedding of comedian & musicologist friends. Gorgeous hymns, as if there had been a rehearsal.

Beautiful Cross Alloy Silver Plating Rhinestone Wedding Bridal Jewelry Set -

hurricane irene cancels byram township family wedding for a second time.

I got shelter in my crib but all females have to have one item of clothing on max

Finally get some money in my account and I'm already planning on how much to spend on vintage clothing!

I swallowed my jewelry and now I'm hiding in the dryer with my dogs and a bottle of Grey Goose

I want the storm to come... After my hair is done & after I go jewelry/shoe shopping but before I wake up for school on Monday..

Thursday, August 25, 2011

It's a lie that girls want jewelry. We really want pit tickets to rock concerts

It's a lie that girls want jewelry. We really want pit tickets to rock concerts
First thing:

Juicy introduces hundreds of new jewelry items every year and discontinues hundreds more, so do your research before you buy. Check Nordstrom, Adasa, eLuxury, Neiman Marcus or other e-commerce sites to see if the item actually exists or is produced in that color. You wouldn't believe how many sellers manage to pass something fake off as real simply by stating that the items is no longer in stores or was produced in a color it wasn't.

Here are some examples:


Neither of these necklaces were produced in Silver, and the earrings were never produced by Juicy Couture; all are fake. The authentic gold necklaces are quite rare now as Juicy stopped producing them years ago. When Juicy Couture first started making Jewelry everything was gold-tone. They only started producing things in Silver about a year ago and still only make most of their items in gold so research is important. This brings me to the second thing...

Make sure the seller is showing the item in the box. Juicy Couture boxes are distinctive and most counterfeiters have not been able to accurately reproduce them, so a lot of people just get around that by not showing them. The original ones are black with blue terry interior, the newest ones are dark brown with pink terry interior, though some of the necklaces, bracelets and earrings come in pink heart shaped boxes with brown leather interior.

Here's a real Juicy charm box, real Juicy earring box and a real Juicy heart shaped box:


Notice that the charm is affixed to the box using a gold ring. The counterfeit charms always have white ribbon instead. The earrings almost always come in boxes such as this one above. If a seller isn't offering the box, ask why. No reputable seller will mind, and most will state the reason in the listing itself so you don't have to ask. This brings me to the third thing...

Make sure the listing states Authentic, not Auth. When I first started on eBay, Auth. was mostly used because Authentic took up too much space in a listing title, but now people are using it to mean, fake, but real looking. Also, look for spelling errors in the title or listing titles that things like "JUICY necklace COUTURE charm". Sellers using titles such as this one are not selling real Juicy Couture items, and can claim later that they weren't offering an authentic t-shirt, but an authentic t-sheet or an authentic COUTURE item, with JUICY printed on it. eBay has a great spell-check program so words spelled incorrectly might be intentional.

This is a good time to talk about sellers outside North America. You do see a lot of fake Juicy merchandise coming from Asia so a lot of people just recommend not buying anything from outside the U.S. I've seen fake stuff being sold from the U.S. so this may not be the best strategy to avoid counterfeit goods. Being Canadian myself, I never mind someone asking me where I got something. It may seem strange, but authentic Juicy Couture is sold world-wide so people in a lot of different countries do have access. Unfortunately counterfeit Juicy Couture is also sold world-wide so you have to be careful. This brings me to the fourth thing...

Be wary of sellers who have multiple listings with the same item, especially items you can't find anywhere else. Most reputable sellers use the multiple items feature in one Buy-it-now listing. A lot of these reputable sellers also have eBay stores and About Me pages so you can get to know them. This is why eBay always recommends you check the sellers feedback BEFORE you buy. If you can't, either because the seller has made their feedback private or because the listings were private, be wary. Also notice the neutral feedback, or comments such as "Item not as described" Or "Looked different in the Picture" Feedback is one of the best tools on eBay for avoiding fake goods, so use it! This brings me to the final thing...

The price. Charms average $30-$60 ($30 is rare), necklaces start at $55 (for the starter charm necklace) and earrings at $35 for studs and $50 for hoops and other types and bracelets start at $35 (for the starter charm bracelet). Sure we all come to eBay hoping to grab that dream bargain, and $1.00 starting prices are not rare, but few people can afford to sell something for less than they bought it for.

Having had trouble finding unique and quality fashion jewelry?

Many people think it is, but that is not correct. Only Brighton Rings are made of Sterling Silver. Yes it is true, almost all of Brightons Jewelry is not PURE STERLING SILVER!



Brighton's jewelry, such as bracelets, necklaces, earrings, and Brightons silver ornaments such as purse accents, key fobs, card cases, are cast in solid brass or zinc, and then lavishly dipped in pure silver. Since silver has a natural tendency to tarnish (oxidize) and scratch, Brighton has added a protective layer of lacquer to assist in retarding this typical occurrence.



All earring posts, French wires & lever backs on earrings are sterling silver. This is great for the people with highly sensitive ears. As for clip-on earrings, the clips are not sterling silver. They are stamping brass, with a finish plating on them.



So, what is best? Most people would say that sterling silver is. I might say that also, but as an owner of Brighton Jewelry I do believe the overlaying process that Brighton uses is just as good. One thing good about having a lacquer coating is that it never tarnishes. It makes it very resistant to scratches also. Most people can not tell the difference between sterling silver and Brightons overlay sterling silver.

7 Top Tips for Increasing Jewelry Sales in 2008

I am a collector of Dragon's Breath stones and I have spent a lot of time researching it. There is very little information available, so I am putting together my findings and what I know as a collector so as to better equip eBay buyers and sellers in hopes to relieve some of the confusion about the stone. Most if not all of my findings are what the collectors of the stone already know. I'm sure that most, if not all of the collectors will agree with my findings. But one things is for sure, the collectors do know what the stone is supposed to look like.

Dragon's Breath aka; Mexican Glass Opal, Glass Jelly Opal, or Glass Fire Opal are names that the stone has picked up. Please remember that these stones are glass and not an opal! Dragon's Breath is a glass that was made to resemble a Mexican fire opal. Costume jewelry stones that are confused with a Dragon's Breath are man-made glass jelly opals or glass foil opals like the man-made Harlequin Glass Foil Opal (see photos below). I stress that these stones are glass and are not opals, so sellers, if you list any of these glass stones, please note that in your listing. In fact eBay has a policy on listing gemstones. Here is a quote from eBay's listing policy on gemstones. "If the mineral composition of the stone or gem is different from the natural mineral, you must clearly identify the item as such throughout your listing." So, even if your item is not Dragon's Breath, but one of the other glass stones, and you list that item as an opal, such as "Jelly Opal" or "Foil Opal" you must list it with the word "glass" or "imitation" included. I wrote this guide so both buyers and sellers can be informed. So, sellers if you would like to quote anything from this guide, you may do so only if you add a link to the guide on your auction so that buyers can be informed as well. ---- Thanks!

Dragons breath was made by adding metal to the molten glass. This is what gives it the electric blue and purple flashes or ripples inside the stone. The stone is usually seen in an oval or round cabochon shape (rounded and smooth top), but you will see other shapes. The stone is un-foiled and transparent. The colors have a mixture of orange, red, yellow, and sometimes even a rose tint. Then depending on the angle that you view it, there is an inner fire of beautiful streaks of electric blues and purples that seem to just levitate inside the glass. At some angles you can see more of the blues and purples. Other angles you may see only small amounts and again at other angles you may see none. This blue and purple "breath" inside the red orange glass is what gave the stone it's name and has captivated many into becoming collectors of this mystical stone.

A Dragon's Breath collector knows what the stone is supposed to look like and we get frustrated when we see so many pieces of jewelry with false descriptions of Dragon's Breath. So to educate those that just don't know, I have taken the time to put together this guide. If you find it helplul, please vote yes at the bottom of this page.

Below, I have added some photos of some of my pieces to show what a true Dragon's Breath is supposed to look like, along with some photos of other stones that get confused with it.

Get your custom Shamballa bracelet made by G3 Jewelry and set yourself apart from the rest

When deciding on a gold jewelry item there are always many different terms that come up. The most popular are Solid Gold, Gold Filled, and Gold Plated. It is important to know the differences between Gold Filled jewelry and Gold Plated jewelry when making your choice. Solid gold is of course an exquisite piece of jewelry. Gold filled is the next level and is an amazing, quality alternative to solid gold. Gold plating is the lower level and these items tend to tarnish and can often times turn the skin green.


Gold Filled: Gold filled is an actual layer of gold-pressure bonded to another metal. Gold filled is not to be confused with gold plating as filled literally has 100% more gold than gold plating. Gold filled is much more valuable and tarnish resistant. It does not flake off, rub off or turn colors. As a matter of fact, anyone who can wear gold can wear gold filled without worries of any allergic reaction to the jewelry. Gold filled jewelry is an economical alternative to solid gold!


Click Gold Filled Jewelry to see some examples of items

Government Regulation: Gold filled items are regulated by the government. These items are therefore so much better then gold plated which has no regulations at all. Gold filled jewelry is made from solid gold and filled with other alloys such as rhodium (a member of the platinum family), brass, and sterling silver. Gold filled wears, looks and lasts like solid gold because its outer surface IS solid gold. Everything you can see and touch is pure gold. In the jewelry industry the quantity of gold must be at least 1/20th by weight of the total product.

Lifetime Products: Gold-Filled items are generally considered lifetime products, and the gold layer will not wear off, as it will in electroplated products. Gold filled jewelry is often called the wave of the future because it offers all the same characteristics as solid gold such as strength, durability and beauty….but at a fraction of the cost!

I matched my eyeshadow to my Czech jewelry

Many sellers lower the original creation years of their jewelry items in order to sell at higher prices. Don't be fooled by this technique! One simple dating method is by using the presence of the AURORA BOREALIS rhinestone.

Exactly what is Aurora Borealis?

Many people aren't sure what AB really is. It's a stone that has been coated with thin layers of metal to enhance brilliance and reflective color quality. The method of coating the stone involves vaporizing metals in a vacuum.

Sellers and Misdating AB Jewelry

Often sellers give approximate dates in their descriptions. Many sellers are not as educated on their merchandise as they should be. Even those that are knowledgeable, will lower the creation date in order to command higher prices. I've seen items that I know were manufactured in the late 1960's and early 1970's listed as 1930's!

How can you know when a seller is misrepresenting the creation date of a piece of jewelry? One key is to look for aurora borealis (AB) stones!

When was the AB stone really born?

The process of making AB coating on crystal was in experimental phases in the early 1950's by the Swarovski Company. The process progressed to some success in 1953, but not until 1955 did Manfred Swarovski perfect the glorious AB stone! He worked closely with Christian Dior, and they were the first to have access to the "rainbow" stone.

Some excellent examples of the color & fire of AB!

Two clasp holders divide the chain into three sections.

The Concept. Individual beads are strung on a specialized base bracelet to create a personalized piece of jewelry. Much like the traditional charm bracelets, European Beads are three dimensional and made from a wide range of materials. They feature a large diameter bore, or center hole, that accommodates the bracelet chain. The bead bore can be either threaded or smooth. For the most part beads and bracelets are interchangeable; however there are a few exceptions that are explained in greater detail later on in this guide.

The Bracelet. Bracelets from Pandora, Biagi, Chamilia, etc are available in varying lengths and materials. Popular styles have a beaded or lobster claw clasp and are made from Sterling Silver, 14k or 18k Gold, or a combination of both Silver and Gold. Prices range from $10 for an off brand bracelet to $500 or more for a solid 14k gold Pandora bracelet. Troll Bead bracelets are different in that the decorative double sided clasp is seperate from the chain and can be changed. Some manufactures offer starter bracelets in adjustable lengths. Necklaces and anklets are also available.






Two clasp holders divide the chain into three sections. This allows the wearer to customize the look of their bracelet and control the movement of the beads by using Bead Clasps or Cover Locks. Again, an exception to this is the Troll Bead system which uses a special blocker bead to control bead movement. Blocker beads are also now available from Pandora, Chamilia, and Biagi to use on both bracelets/necklaces with clasp holders and those without. See our Blocker Bead description below for further information.



The Beads.
European beads are available in many styles. Design options for a bracelet are limitless. Beads are made from solid Sterling Silver, Solid Gold, silver and gold plate, base metal, and glass. Some feature cubic zirconia stones, Swarovski crystals, precious stones, and so on. Prices range from as little as $4.00 for a base metal bead to $100 or more for a solid gold bead. As mentioned earlier some European Beads have a threaded bore while others have a smooth bore. This is mainly due to the individual "bracelet systems" that manufactures have developed. For example, the patented Pandora bracelet system uses threaded sections along the bracelet chain and threaded bores within their beads while LoveLinks bracelets do not use threads, but rather coat the inside bore of their beads so that they may easily slide onto the LoveLinks bracelets.

Clasps, Clips, or Cover Locks. Clasps, also referred to as Clips or Cover Locks, are hinged beads that open in order to be placed over the raised clasp holders along the bracelet chain. These specialized beads prevent other beads from moving along the bracelet chain and "bunching up". Clasps are not required on a bracelet; it is more of a personal choice. Some prefer to have only a few beads on their bracelet separated with Clasps, while others cover every inch of their bracelet chain with beads.

Blocker Beads are similar to regular spacers or other European Beads however the Blocker Beads have a rubber gasket inside the bead that grips the chain and prevents the beads from sliding beyond the blocker bead. These specialized beads do the same job as the Clasps, Clips, and Cover Locks described above but with greater freedom of bracelet or necklace design since they can be placed anywhere along the bracelet or necklace chain.

The Glass Bead. Glass beads are extremely popular. Like precious metal European Beads, glass beads are also made in a variety of styles and come in bold colors and beautiful designs. Some feature sterling silver inserts in the bore of the bead while others have silver plated inserts or none at all. Inserts are intended to protect your bracelet and the glass bead itself.

Getting Started

Choosing the right size. With European Bead Bracelets size does matter. As a general rule you should measure the wrist at the widest part and add 1" to determine the proper size bracelet. If you prefer bracelets to be snug only add 3/4". As each manufacturer produces different size bracelets it is best to consult with the manufacturer guidelines when choosing a bracelet size. Any reputable seller should be able to answer your questions and help you determine the proper size.

Compatibility. The most often asked question is one of compatibility. Will such and such bead fit such and such bracelet. Example: Threaded beads and Lovelinks beads will fit on a Troll Bead bracelet but Troll Bead beads will not fit on a bracelet from Pandora, Biagi, or Lovelinks. Click on the link below to be taken to our Compatibility Chart

110823 Best couple recording - Sungmin. You can see a bit of Jewelry Eunjung - his couple on that day.

110823 Best couple recording - Sungmin. You can see a bit of Jewelry Eunjung - his couple on that day.

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Today's Best Value: Save 31% and pay only $31.50 for this genuine amethyst and peridot ring set in .925 sterling

Today's Best Value: Save 31% and pay only $31.50 for this genuine amethyst and peridot ring set in .925 sterling

$10 for $20 Worth of Jewelry at Francesca Fine Jewelry

$10 for $20 Worth of Jewelry at Francesca Fine Jewelry

Learning to Differentiate Between CZ Jewelry and Diamond


The huge popularity of Cubic Zirconia or CZ in short is attributable to its ability to substitute itself as a desirable substitute for the more expensive diamond itself. Most Gemologists agree that the visual characteristics of CZ match closely with that of diamond, and even trained personnel in gemology cannot differentiate them with naked eyes. For the ordinary pair of eyes with no knowledge of gemology CZ looks very similar to diamonds. A closer inspection would however reveal a marginally lesser brilliance compared to a diamond and an excess dose of fire or flash of color. Originally, the Russians are credited with the development of CZ primarily for the Russian space program. This exercise was to provide an alternative for diamonds used in optics of lasers. The refractive index, hardness and dispersion of CZ are so close to diamond making it so uncanny.

How do we differentiate CZ jewelry?

To distinguish CZ jewelry from diamonds, it is essential to employ gemological equipments such as a loupe, microscope etc. While the hardness of diamond reads 10 being the hardest material known to mankind, CZ measures between 8.5 and 9 on Mohs? hardness scale. Glass/sand measures 5 to 6 which means that dust and dirt cannot cause scratches on your CZ jewelry. CZ can however cause scratches on glass which again is good news for your CZ jewelry because it provides resistance to chipping.

Weight

When it comes to weight, the CZ is a heavy weight counterpart compared to diamonds with a typical comparison notching upto 175% in weight in relation to diamond. This is again great news for CZ jewelry lovers because the weight of a similar sized diamond jewelry will be nearly half of the CZ jewelry.

CZ is colorless and flawless

While diamonds tend to carry impurities or some kind of defects, CZ is generally flawless. When we consider, colorless diamonds are among the rarest and most diamonds will have brown or yellow tinge. CZ on the contrary can be manufactured to be colorless comparable to ?D? on a color grading for diamonds.

Other factors

Identification of gems through visual inspection, in most cases is more a wild guess work than a scientific authentication. Even qualified gemologists need to be employ gemological equipment to precisely test and verify the quality of gems. The CZ while being inexpensive and durable is close to diamonds in sheen and appearance and can be sourced in any rainbow colors making them more appealing. A number of attempts to get jewelers inspect CZ with naked eyes to differentiate from diamonds have seldom been conclusive. Visual inspection was inadequate to determine the difference which asserts the value of CZ jewelry.

Everybody knows that diamonds are natural and expensive while CZ is an artificial product with qualities that are close match to real diamonds, particularly when they are employed in jewelry. The lower price at which CZ jewelry is available to customers around the world is perhaps denying CZ its due place in the jewelry

1970s Crochet Jewelry Jewellery Chokers Necklace 12 designs Vintage Pattern


1970s Crochet Jewelry Jewellery Chokers Necklace 12 designs Vintage Pattern

my jewelry modelmaking class...

Kinda just woke up and done with breakfast.... just remembered las night's session in my jewelry modelmaking class... (cont)

Steampunk Jewelry 1920


Steampunk Jewelry 1920

Fall 2011 Jewelry Trends - Collar Necklaces


Fall 2011 Jewelry Trends - Collar Necklaces

CAN YOU REALLY TELL IF SOMETHING IS AUTHENTIC BY LOOKING AT THE PICTURE?

To be perfectly blunt, the only way to be absolutely 100% sure that a piece of jewelry is authentic is to buy from a reputable dealer (and there are a number of great ones on ebay!). There are societies like the Antique Tribal Arts Dealer Association (ATADA) that require their members hold to the highest standards. If someone has educational information in their listing, they probably want you as a buyer to be well informed, and therefore are not afraid of informed buyers. But there are things you can look for in a piece of jewelry. If you are lucky the piece will be signed by the Zuni or Navajo artist and will be readily identifiable. Get some of the books below and familiarize yourself with Zuni versus Navajo last names. If the piece is marked Begay or Yazzi, it ain't Zuni. If the piece is not marked, look for tight bezels and well-formed and smooth silverwork. Hand stamping and file work can be precise, but is not always utterly uniform, like it would be if a machine stamped it. A handmade bezel, for holding a stone, usually doesn't have perfectly triangular sharp uniform teeth. It is very hard to tell from a picture if a piece of turquoise is good, but if it looks plastic-like or the matrix looks too uniform and perfect, it may be block or faux. Many of the old Fred Harvey pieces do not have real turquoise, which does not make them any less collectible. In general Zuni people do the best inlay and the Navajo are known for their superb silverwork, but of course there are exceptions. I have seen both Zuni and Navajo turquoise cluster work, and even snake eyes row work. Also I have seen Navajo inlaid knifewing or rainbowman kachinas, which are more typically made by Zuni artists. Big heavy silverwork is usually Navajo. Also there are collaborations between Zuni and Navajo artists, C. G. Wallace brought Navajo silverwork by Roger Skeet or John Hoxie to be inlaid by Zuni artists Leekya Deyuse or Lambert Homer, and even now Zunis will be asked to do the inlay for a Navajo silverwork piece. One thing to watch for is the use of the term Old or Dead Pawn. Pawn has a specific meaning, Native people essentially borrow money against a valuable piece of jewelry, which is then held in a pawn vault as secure as any bank. Later they repay the loan and get their piece back. Sadly, sometimes they don't ever have the money to get their jewelry back, and so after a designated amount of time the pawn becomes dead, i.e. sellable to anyone. A lot of people think that if a piece they are selling looks old it must be old or dead pawn. Collectors feel that old pawn is some of the highest quality jewelry, as it was intended for use of the artist and his/her family rather than tourists, so many people mark their listings as pawn whether or not they actually did get it from a shop that deals in bona fide pawn. Personally I only mark my pieces pawn if I got them from a pawn trading post. Of course there are still plenty of high quality older pieces that are not directly from pawn shops. The best general advice I have for you is to get some of the books listed below and spend a lot of time looking at pictures! And remember even ethical sellers sometimes make mistakes.